The legacy of denim in America, as seen through early FSA photographs of “blue collar” workers

There is perhaps no other fabric so inextricably associated with a country as is denim with the United States of America. First popularized by Levi’s iconic jean designs in the mid-1800s, denim quickly became the material of choice for working-class Americans, spurring an influx of other brands making workwear with the durable and ubiquitous fabric—from Wrangler and Lee to OshKosh and Carhartt. In the 1950s, denim moved from a work fabric to leisurewear. A large part of this transition was a new generation trying to connect with the rugged, patriotic spirit that the ordinary worker had come to symbolize after the onset of World War II.

This volume traces the origins of this shift through a compendium of photos, drawn primarily from the archive of the Farm Security Administration (FSA), featuring American workers in denim. In both black and white and color, we see ordinary American laborers in the fields, dam construction workers, women toiling on the Chicago railroad, unemployed miners and steelworkers preparing the country for war, all donning denim overalls, jeans, jackets and shirts.

The selection of 250 images represents an incredible feat of curation, drawing from an archive of over 170,000 images containing well-known stories and untold histories, but which has never been looked at through the prism of fashion history before. The images have all been rescanned from the original negatives and are reproduced here in exquisite quality such that the details of the denim—the heft of the weave, white stitching stark against indigo, cuffed hems—appear startlingly modern.